Efnisyfirlit

• Cover
• Half-Title
• Series
• Dedication
• Title
• Contents
• Acknowledgements
• 1 Introduction
• Etymology of fashion
• Fashion as a concept and a phenomenon
• Proponents and opponents of fashion
• Fashion as a subject of intellectual discussion
• The feminization of fashion
• Female opponents of fashion
• Female proponents of fashion
• Studies of fashion in social science
• The use of visual materials as evidence
• Quantitative methods
• Outline of the book
• Guide to further reading
• 2 Sociological Discourse and Empirical Studies of Fashion
• Classical sociological discourse of fashion
• Fashion as imitation
• Fashion as class distinction: Inclusion and exclusion
• Fashion as social custom
• Fashion, social mobility
• The origin of the fashion phenomenon
• Contemporary sociological studies of fashion
• Fashion as collective selection
• Fashion and the sociology of culture
• Fashion as a manufactured cultural symbol
• Youth fashion, subcultures, and technology
• Conclusion
• Guide to further reading
• 3 Fashion as an Institutionalized System
• Theoretical framework of Fashion-ology
• Fashion as a myth supported by the system
• Different approaches to fashion systems
• The beginning of the fashion system
• Fashion production as collective activity
• Empirical study: The French fashion system as a prototype
• The institutionalization of French fashion
• Conclusion
• Guide to further reading
• 4 Designers: The Personification of Fashion
• Designers in the studies of fashion
• Designers, creativity, and social structure
• Legitimation of the designer’s creativity
• The star system of designers
• Stars in culture industries
• The star designers since the turn of the twentieth century
• Hierarchy among designers in the fashion system
• Conclusion
• Guide to further reading
• 5 The production, gatekeeping, and diffusion of fashion
• Diffusion theories of fashion
• Influential leaders of fashion diffusion
• Institutional diffusion
• Sociological theories of fashion diffusion
• Gatekeepers: Making aesthetic judgments
• Fashion journalists
• Fashion magazine editors
• Diffusion strategies from fashion dolls to fashion shows
• Fashion dolls
• Fashion shows
• The significance of fashion shows
• Technological influences on fashion diffusion
• Fashion propaganda through advertising
• Conclusion
• Guide to further reading
• 6 The Adoption and Consumption of Fashion
• Consumption: A historical perspective
• Consumer revolution
• Consuming fashion as symbolic strategy
• Consumption and social status
• Social visibility of fashion
• Consumers as producers
• Conclusion
• Guide to further reading
• 7 Youth Subcultural Fashion as an Alternative System
• The theoretical foundation of subcultures
• American subcultural theories at the University of Chicago
• Traditional definitions of “subculture”
• British subcultural theories at Birmingham University
• Post-subcultural theories and contemporary youth subcultures
• A systemic approach to youth subcultures and fashion
• Punk as a prototype of a less structured alternative fashion system
• The internal mechanism of the alternative fashion system
• Subcultural commercialization as a trickle-up process and legitimation
• Conclusion
• Guide to further reading
• 8 The Impact of Technology in the Changing Fashion Systems
• Trickle-across theory in practice: A collapse of categorical boundaries
• Hybrid and collaborations
• A changing occupational structure in fashion
• Fashion photographers as new gatekeepers
• The convergence of machine-made and handmade clothing production
• The decentralization of fashion geography from Paris to the world
• Conclusion
• Guide to further reading
• 9 Conclusion
• Appendix: Practical guide to sociological research in fashion and dress
• Research process
• Topic selection
• The literature review
• Choosing appropriate research methods
• Ethnography
• Semiotic analysis
• Surveys
• Object-based study
• Data collection, analysis, and conclusion
• Writing/publishing
• Notes
• Bibliography
• Index
• Copyright