Efnisyfirlit

• Contents
• Preface
• Notation
• 1. Introduction
• 1.1 Introduction
• 1.2 Synthesis
• 1.3 Simplification
• 1.4 Systems
• 1.5 Jargon and Terminology
• 1.6 Engineering Time
• 1.7 Handy References
• 1.8 Data Requirements
• 1.9 Coastal Design
• 1.10 Concluding Remarks
• 2. Water Waves
• 2.1 Introduction
• 2.1.1 Description of Waves
• 2.1.2 Wind and Waves
• 2.1.3 Sea and Swell
• 2.1.4 Introduction of Small Amplitude Theory Wave
• 2.2 Wave Theories
• 2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory
• 2.3.1 Wave Tables
• 2.3.2 Small Amplitude Expressions
• 2.3.3 Calculation by Computer
• 2.4 Reflected Waves
• 2.5 Wave Measurement
• 2.5.1 Wave Direction
• 2.5.2 Equipment
• 2.5.3 Laboratory Sensors
• 2.6 Summary
• 3. Short-Term Wave Analysis
• 3.1 Introduction
• 3.2 Short-Term Wave Height Distribution
• 3.3 Wave Period Distribution
• 3.4 Time Domain Analysis of a Wave Record
• 3.5 Frequency Domain Analysis of a Wave Record
• 3.6 Parameters Derived from the Wave Spectrum
• 3.7 Uncertainties in Wave Measurements
• 3.8 Common Parametric Expressions for Wave Spectra
• 3.8 Directional Wave Spectra
• 4. Long-Term Wave Analysis
• 4.1 Introduction
• 4.2 Statistical Analysis of Grouped Wave Data
• 4.3 Transformation of Coordinate Axes
• 4.3.1 Normal Probability Distribution
• 4.3.2 Log-Normal Probability Distribution
• 4.3.3 Gumbel Distribution
• 4.3.4 Weibull Distribution
• 4.4 Extrapolation
• 4.5 Sensitivity to Distribution and Threshold Wave Height
• 4.6 Extreme Value Analysis From Ordered Data
• 4.7 Conclusions About Wave Heights
• 4.8 Other Long-Term Wave Distributions
• 5. Wave Generation
• 5.1 Wave Generation
• 5.2 Simple Wave Hindcasting
• 5.2.1 Introduction to Parametric Methods
• 5.2.2 Wind
• 5.2.3 Jonswap Parameters
• 5.2.4 Maximum Wave Conditions
• 5.2.5 Finite Water Depth
• 5.3 Hindcast Models
• 5.3.1 Parametric Models
• 5.3.2 Wave Spectra Models
• 5.3.3 More Complex Hindcasting Models
• 5.4 Uncertainty
• 6. Tides and Water Levels
• 6.1 Introduction
• 6.2 Tides
• 6.2.1 Equilibrium Tide (Moon)
• 6.2.2 Equilibrium Tide (Sun and Moon)
• 6.2.3 Daily Inequality
• 6.2.4 Other Effects
• 6.2.5 Tide Analysis and Prediction
• 6.2.6 Tidal Currents
• 6.2.7 Stratification and Density Currents
• 6.2.8 Tidal Computation
• 6.3 Storm Surge
• 6.4 Barometric Surge
• 6.5 Seiche
• 6.6 Seasonal Fluctuations
• 6.7 Long-Term Water Level Changes
• 6.7.1 Climatic Fluctuations
• 6.7.2 Eustatic (Sea) Level Change
• 6.7.3 Isostatic (Land) Rebound and Subsidence
• 6.7.4 Global Climate Change
• 7. Wave Transformation and Breaking
• 7.1 Wave Transformation Equations
• 7.2 Wave Shoaling
• 7.3 Wave Refraction
• 7.3.1 The Equations
• 7.3.2 Refraction Diagrams
• 7.3.3 Snell’s Law
• 7.3.4 Summary
• 7.4 Wave Breaking
• 7.5 Wave Diffraction
• 7.6 Uncertainty
• 8. Design of Structures
• 8.1 Introduction
• 8.2 Basics of Risk Analysis
• 8.2.1 Introduction
• 8.2.2 Probability of Failure
• 8.2.3 Levels Of Probabilistic Design
• 8.3 Level II Demonstration
• 8.3.1 Equations
• 8.3.2 Two Probability Distributions
• 8.3.3 One Single Distribution
• 8.3.4 Example Calculations
• 8.4 Extension to More Complex Designs
• 8.5 Encounter Probability
• 8.6 Level I Design
• 8.7 Risk and Damage
• 8.8 The Design Wave
• 8.8.1 Wave Statistics
• 8.8.2 Equivalence of Design Wave Height and Failure Probability
• 8.8.3 Offshore Design Wave Height
• 8.8.4 Design Wave Height for Non-Breaking Waves
• 8.8.5 Design Wave Height for Breaking Waves
• 8.8.6 Model Study
• 8.9 Water Levels
• 9. Breakwaters
• 9.1 Vertical Breakwaters
• 9.1.1 Introduction
• 9.1.2 Forces for Non-Breaking Waves
• 9.1.3 Forces for Breaking Waves
• 9.1.4 Stability Design
• 9.1.5 Geotechnical Stability
• 9.1.6 Other Design Considerations
• 9.2 Design Examples
• 9.2.1 Vertical Breakwater in 12 m of Water with a Short Fetch
• 9.2.2 Vertical Breakwater in 12 m of Water on an Open Coast
• 9.2.3 Vertical Breakwater in 3 m of Water
• 9.2.4 Summary
• 9.3 Rubble Mound Breakwaters
• 9.3.1 Filter Characteristics
• 9.3.2 Rock Armor
• 9.3.3 Concrete Armor
• 9.3.4 Armor Unit Density
• 9.3.5 Primary Armor Layer
• 9.3.6 Breakwater Crest
• 9.4 Design Examples
• 9.4.1 Breakwater in 12 m of Water
• 9.4.2 Breakwater in 3 m of Water
• 9.4 Berm Breakwaters
• 10. Introduction to Coastal Management
• 10.1 Introduction
• 10.2 The Coast under Pressure
• 10.3 Conforming Use
• 10.4 Conflict and Compatibility
• 10.5 Management Strategies
• 10.6 Coastal Management in Spite of the Odds
• 10.7 Management of Coastal Lands
• 10.8 Management of Coastal Waters
• 10.8.1 Groundwater
• 10.8.2 Waste Water
• 10.8.3 Other Forms of Pollution
• 10.9 Example: Management of the Great Lakes – St Lawrence Shoreline
• 10.10 Example: Management of Coastal Ecosystems
• 10.11 Concluding Remarks
• 11. Coastal Sediment Transport
• 11.1 Introduction
• 11.2 Dynamic Beach Profile
• 11.3 Cross-shore Transport
• 11.3.1 Dune-Beach Utopia
• 11.2.3 Dune-Beach Disturbance
• 11.3.3 Dune-Beach Encouragement
• 11.3.4 Soft Protection
• 11.4 Alongshore Transport
• 11.4.1 The Process
• 11.4.2 Measurement of Littoral Transport
• 11.4.3 Computation of Littoral Transport
• 11.5 Complications
• 11.5.1 Limited Amounts of Beach Material
• 11.5.2 Sediment Transport in Two Directions
• 11.5.3 Short Term Littoral Transport
• 11.6 Cohesive Shores
• 12. Basic Shore Processes
• 12.1 Introduction
• 12.2 Nearshore Current Patterns
• 12.3 Littoral Materials
• 12.4 The Beach
• 12.4.1 Beach Slope
• 12.4.2 Beach Profile
• 12.5 Cross Shore Sediment Transport
• 12.6 Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate
• 12.6.1 Alongshore Component of Wave Power
• 12.6.2 CERC Expression
• 12.6.3 Kamphuis (1991) Expression
• 12.7 Actual Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate
• 12.8 The Littoral Cell
• 12.9 Uncertainty
• 13. Coastal Design
• 13.1 Introduction
• 13.2 Model Classification
• 13.2.1 Time-Space Classification
• 13.2.2 Classification by Purpose
• 13.3 Physical Models
• 13.3.1 General
• 13.3.2 Scaling and Scale Effect
• 13.3.3 Laboratory Effect
• 13.3.4 Implications for Physical Modeling
• 13.4 Numerical Modeling
• 13.4.1 General
• 13.4.2 Simplifications of Three Dimensional Models
• 13.4.3 One Dimensional Models and their Extensions
• 13.4.4 Performance of Coastal Models
• 13.5 Field Measurement and Data Models
• 13.6 Uncertainty
• 13.7 Reducing Uncertainty
• 13.8 Model Interpretation
• 13.9 The Future
• 13.10 Composite Modeling
• 13.11 Summary
• 14. One-Dimensional Modeling of Coastal Morphology
• 14.1 Introduction
• 14.2 The 1-D Morphology Equation
• 14.3 Sediment Transport Rate
• 14.3.1 Potential Sediment Transport Rate
• 14.3.2 Actual Sediment Transport Rate
• 14.4 Wave Transformation Computation
• 14.4.1 Wave Shoaling, Refraction and Breaking
• 14.4.2 Wave Diffraction
• 14.5 Analytical Computation of Shore Morphology
• 14.5.1 Simplifications and Assumptions
• 14.5.2 Complete Barrier Solution
• 14.5.3 Bypassing Barrier Solution
• 14.6 Numerical Solutions
• 14.6.1 Basics
• 14.6.2 Implicit Finite Difference Scheme
• 14.6.3 Boundary Conditions
• 14.6.4 Beach Slope
• 14.6.5 Large Shoreline Curvatures
• 14.6.6 Summary
• 14.7 Examples of ONELINE
• 14.8 Examples of NLINE
• 15. Shore Protection
• 15.1 Introduction
• 15.2 Sediment Movement
• 15.3 Groins
• 15.4 Seawalls
• 15.5 Headlands
• 15.6 Offshore Breakwaters
• 15.7 Artificial Nourishment
• 15.8 Water Levels
• 16. Problems
• 16.1 Introduction
• Problem 1.1 Preparation
• Problem 1.2 Proposal
• 16.2 Water Waves
• Problem 2.1 Basic Wave Calculations
• Problem 2.2 Wave Reflection
• 16.3 Short-Term wave Analysis
• Problem 3.1 Analysis of Fig 3.4
• Problem 3.2 Analysis of Collected Wave Data
• Problem 3.3 Rayleigh Distribution
• Problem 3.4 Zero Crossing Analysis
• Problem 3.5 Wave Spectrum
• Problem 3.6 Laboratory Record
• 16.4 Long-Term Wave Analysis
• Problem 4.1 Station 13 Data
• Problem 4.2 North Sea Wave Climate
• Problem 4.3 Gulf of St. Lawrence Climate
• Problem 4.4 50-year Storm
• 16.5 Wave Hindcasting
• Problem 5.1 Very Simple Wave Hindcast
• Problem 5.2 Simple Wave Hindcast
• Problem 5.3 WAVGEN and Shallow Water
• 16.6 Storm Surge
• Problem 6.1 Storm Surge at Reeds Bay
• Problem 6.2 Storm Surge and Waves
• Problem 6.3 Storm Surge and Waves at Site S
• 16.7 Wave Transformation
• Problem 7.1 Wave Refraction and Breaking
• Problem 7.2 Wave Transformation
• Problem 7.3 Wave Diffraction
• 16.8 Design
• Problem 8.1 Probability of Failure
• Problem 8.2 Vertical Breakwater
• Problem 8.3 Vertical Breakwater at Site M
• Problem 8.4 Vertical loading dock on Gulf of St. Lawrence
• Problem 8.5 Rubble Mound Breakwater
• Problem 8.6 Rubble Mound Breakwater at Site M
• 16.9 Coastal Management
• Problem 9.1 Expansion at Site M
• Problem 9.2 Facilities at Site B
• Problem 9.3 Development of Property
• 16.10 Sediment Transport and Morphology
• Problem 10.1 Potential Sediment Transport Rate
• Problem 10.2 Potential Sediment Transport Rate
• Problem 10.3 Accretion
• Problem 10.4 Sediment Transport in two Directions
• Problem 10.5 Sea Level Rise
• Problem 10.6 Northeaster Storm
• 16.11 Modeling
• Problem 11.1 Physical Models
• Problem 11.2 Numerical Models
• 16.12 Comprehensive Problems
• Problem 12.1 Design Analysis
• Problem 12.2 Design of Breakwater with Parapet Wall
• Problem 12.3 Vertical Breakwater Design
• References
• Author Index
• Subject Index