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• Cover page
• Title page
• Copyright
• Dedication
• Preface to 3rd Edition
• Preface to 2nd Edition
• Preface to 1st Edition
• Contents
• Notation
• Chapter 1. Introduction
• 1.1 Introduction
• 1.2 Synthesis
• 1.3 Simplification
• 1.4 Systems
• 1.5 Jargon and Terminology
• 1.6 Engineering Time
• 1.7 Handy References
• 1.8 Data Requirements
• 1.9 Coastal Design
• 1.10 Concluding Remarks
• Chapter 2. Water Waves
• 2.1 Introduction
• 2.1.1 Description of waves
• 2.1.2 Wind and waves
• 2.1.3 Sea and swell
• 2.1.4 Introduction to small amplitude wave theory
• 2.2 Wave Theories
• 2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory
• 2.3.1 Wave tables
• 2.3.2 Small amplitude expressions
• 2.3.3 Calculation by computer
• 2.4 Reflected Waves
• 2.5 Wave Measurement
• 2.5.1 Wave direction
• 2.5.2 Equipment
• 2.5.3 Laboratory sensors
• 2.6 Summary
• Chapter 3. Short-Term Wave Analysis
• 3.1 Introduction
• 3.2 Short-Term Wave Height Distribution
• 3.3 Wave Period Distribution
• 3.4 Time Domain Analysis of a Wave Record
• 3.5 Frequency Domain Analysis of a Wave Record
• 3.6 Parameters Derived from the Wave Spectrum
• 3.7 Uncertainties in Wave Measurements
• 3.8 Common Parametric Expressions for Wave Spectra
• 3.9 Directional Wave Spectra
• Chapter 4. Long-Term Wave Analysis
• 4.1 Introduction
• 4.2 Statistical Analysis of Grouped Wave Data
• 4.3 Transformation of Coordinate Axes
• 4.3.1 Normal probability distribution
• 4.3.2 Log-normal probability distribution
• 4.3.3 Gumbel distribution
• 4.3.4 Weibull distribution
• 4.4 Extrapolation
• 4.5 Sensitivity to Distribution and Threshold Wave Height
• 4.6 Extreme Value Analysis from Ordered Data
• 4.7 Conclusions about Wave Heights
• 4.8 Other Long-Term Wave Distributions
• Chapter 5. Wave Generation
• 5.1 Wave Generation
• 5.2 Simple Wave Hindcasting
• 5.2.1 Introduction to parametric methods
• 5.2.2 Wind
• 5.2.3 Jonswap parameters
• 5.2.4 Maximum wave conditions
• 5.2.5 Finite water depth
• 5.3 Hindcast Models
• 5.3.1 Parametric models
• 5.3.2 Wave spectra models
• 5.3.3 More complex hindcasting models
• 5.4 Uncertainty
• Chapter 6. Wave Transformation and Breaking
• 6.1 Wave Transformation Equations
• 6.2 Wave Shoaling
• 6.3 Wave Refraction
• 6.3.1 The equations
• 6.3.2 Refraction diagrams
• 6.3.3 Snell’s law
• 6.3.4 Summary
• 6.4 Wave Breaking
• 6.5 Wave Diffraction
• 6.6 Uncertainty
• Chapter 7. Tides and Water Levels
• 7.1 Introduction
• 7.2 Tides
• 7.2.1 Equilibrium tide (Moon)
• 7.2.2 Equilibrium tide (Sun and Moon)
• 7.2.3 Daily inequality
• 7.2.4 Other effects
• 7.2.5 Tide analysis and prediction
• 7.2.6 Tidal propagation
• 7.2.7 Tidal currents
• 7.2.8 Stratification and density currents
• 7.2.9 Tidal computation
• 7.3 Storm Surge
• 7.4 Barometric Surge
• 7.5 Seiche
• 7.6 Seasonal Fluctuations
• 7.7 Long-Term Water Level Changes
• 7.7.1 Climatic fluctuations
• 7.7.2 Eustatic (Sea) level change
• 7.7.3 Isostatic (Land) rebound and subsidence
• 7.7.4 Global climate change
• Chapter 8. Rare Extraneous Events
• 8.1 Introduction
• 8.2 Cyclone-Generated Storm Surge
• 8.2.1 Hurricane Katrina at New Orleans
• 8.3 Tsunamis
• 8.3.1 Tsunamis generated by earthquakes
• 8.3.2 Tsunamis generated by landslides
• 8.4 Transformation and Breaking of Long Waves
• Chapter 9. Design of Structures
• 9.1 Introduction
• 9.2 Basics of Probabilistic Design
• 9.2.1 Introduction
• 9.2.2 Probability of failure
• 9.2.3 Levels of probabilistic design
• 9.3 Level II Demonstration
• 9.3.1 Equations
• 9.3.2 Two probability distributions
• 9.3.3 One single distribution
• 9.3.4 Example calculations
• 9.4 Extension to More Complex Designs
• 9.5 Encounter Probability
• 9.6 Level I Design
• 9.7 Risk and Damage
• 9.8 The Design Wave
• 9.8.1 Wave statistics
• 9.8.2 Equivalence of design wave height and failure probability
• 9.8.3 Offshore design wave height
• 9.8.4 Design wave height for non-breaking waves
• 9.8.5 Design wave height for breaking waves
• 9.8.6 Model study
• 9.9 Water Levels
• Chapter 10. Breakwaters
• 10.1 Vertical Breakwaters
• 10.1.1 Introduction
• 10.1.2 Forces for non-breaking waves
• 10.1.3 Forces for breaking waves
• 10.1.4 Stability design
• 10.1.5 Geotechnical stability
• 10.1.6 Other design considerations
• 10.2 Design Examples3
• 10.2.1 Vertical breakwater in 12 m of water with a short fetch
• 10.2.2 Vertical breakwater in 12 m of water on an open coast
• 10.2.3 Vertical breakwater in 3 m of water
• 10.2.4 Summary
• 10.3 Rubble Mound Breakwaters
• 10.3.1 Filter characteristics
• 10.3.2 Rock armor
• 10.3.3 Concrete armor
• 10.3.4 Armor unit density
• 10.3.5 Primary armor layer
• 10.3.6 Breakwater crest
• 10.4 Design Examples
• 10.4.1 Breakwater in 12 m of water
• 10.4.2 Breakwater in 3 m of water
• 10.5 Berm Breakwaters
• Chapter 11. Introduction to Coastal Management
• 11.1 Introduction
• 11.2 Decision Making
• 11.3 The Coast under Pressure
• 11.4 Conforming Use
• 11.5 Conflict and Compatibility
• 11.6 Management Strategies
• 11.7 Coastal Management in Spite of the Odds
• 11.8 Management of Coastal Lands
• 11.9 Management of Coastal Waters
• 11.9.1 Groundwater
• 11.9.2 Waste water
• 11.9.3 Other forms of pollution
• 11.10 Example: Management of the Great Lakes–St. Lawrence Shoreline
• 11.11 Example: Management of Coastal Ecosystems
• 11.12 Concluding Remarks
• Chapter 12. Coastal Sediment Transport
• 12.1 Introduction
• 12.2 Dynamic Beach Profile
• 12.3 Cross-Shore Transport
• 12.3.1 Dune-Beach Utopia
• 12.3.2 Dune-Beach disturbance
• 12.3.3 Dune-Beach encouragement
• 12.3.4 Soft protection
• 12.4 Alongshore Sediment Transport
• 12.4.1 The process
• 12.4.2 Measurement of littoral transport
• 12.4.3 Computation of littoral transport
• 12.5 Complications
• 12.5.1 Limited amounts of beach material
• 12.5.2 Sediment transport in two directions
• 12.5.3 Short term littoral transport
• 12.6 Cohesive shores
• Chapter 13. Basic Shore Processes
• 13.1 Introduction
• 13.2 Nearshore Current Patterns
• 13.3 Littoral Materials
• 13.4 The Beach
• 13.4.1 Beach slope
• 13.4.2 Beach profile
• 13.5 Cross Shore Sediment Transport
• 13.6 Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate
• 13.6.1 Alongshore component of wave power
• 13.6.2 CERC expression
• 13.6.3 Kamphuis (1991) expression
• 13.7 Actual Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate
• 13.8 The Littoral Cell
• 13.9 Uncertainty
• Chapter 14. Coastal Design
• 14.1 Introduction
• 14.2 Model Classification
• 14.2.1 Time-space classification
• 14.2.2 Classification by purpose
• 14.3 Physical Models
• 14.3.1 General
• 14.3.2 Scaling and scale effect
• 14.3.3 Laboratory effect
• 14.3.4 Implications for physical modeling
• 14.4 Numerical Modeling
• 14.4.1 General
• 14.4.2 Simplifications of three-dimensional models
• 14.4.3 One-dimensional models and their extensions
• 14.4.4 Performance of coastal models
• 14.5 Field Measurement and Data Models
• 14.6 Uncertainty
• 14.7 Reducing Uncertainty
• 14.8 Model Interpretation
• 14.9 The Future
• 14.10 Composite Modeling
• 14.11 Summary
• Chapter 15. One-Dimensional Modeling of Coastal Morphology
• 15.1 Introduction
• 15.2 The 1-D Morphology Equation
• 15.3 Sediment Transport Rate
• 15.3.1 Potential sediment transport rate
• 15.3.2 Actual sediment transport rate
• 15.4 Wave Transformation Computation
• 15.4.1 Wave shoaling, refraction and breaking
• 15.4.2 Wave diffraction
• 15.5 Analytical Computation of Shore Morphology
• 15.5.1 Simplifications and assumptions
• 15.5.2 Complete barrier solution
• 15.5.3 Bypassing barrier solution
• 15.6 Numerical Solutions
• 15.6.1 Basics
• 15.6.2 Implicit finite difference scheme
• 15.6.3 Boundary conditions
• 15.6.4 Beach slope
• 15.6.5 Large shoreline curvatures
• 15.6.6 Summary
• 15.7 Examples of ONELINE
• 15.8 Examples of NLINE
• Chapter 16. Shore Protection
• 16.1 Introduction
• 16.2 Sediment Movement
• 16.3 Groins
• 16.4 Seawalls
• 16.5 Headlands
• 16.6 Offshore Breakwaters
• 16.7 Artificial Nourishment
• 16.8 Concluding Remarks
• Chapter 17. Contemporary Concepts
• 17.1 Introduction
• 17.2 Decision Making
• 17.3 Contemporary Coastal System Design
• 17.4 Contemporary Decision Making
• 17.5 Failure, Mitigation and Adaptation
• 17.6 Risk and Minimum Cost
• 17.7 Resilience
• 17.7.1 Introduction of resilience
• 17.7.2 Level 1 — Design of a resilient PES
• 17.8 Uncertainty
• Chapter 18. Climate, Climate Change and Climate Change Impacts
• 18.1 Essentials of Climate Change
• 18.2 Two Examples of Climate Change Impacts
• 18.2.1 Increased sea levels
• 18.2.2 Change in ocean circulation
• 18.3 Notes to Finish ‘Essentials of Climate Change’
• 18.4 From the Past to the Present or from Certainty to Uncertainty
• 18.5 The Future or What Should We Do Now
• 18.5.1 Time frames
• 18.5.2 Urgency and calamity
• 18.5.3 Coastal engineering teaching and research
• Chapter 19. Problems
• 19.1 Introduction
• 19.2 Water Waves
• 19.3 Short-Term Wave Analysis
• 19.4 Long-Term Wave Analysis
• 19.5 Wave Hindcasting
• 19.6 Wave Transformation
• 19.7 Storm Surge and Extraneous Events
• 19.8 Design
• 19.9 Coastal Management
• 19.10 Sediment Transport and Morphology
• 19.11 Modeling
• 19.12 Shore Protection
• 19.13 Contemporary Decision Making
• 19.14 Comprehensive Problems
• References
• Author Index
• Subject Index