Description
Efnisyfirlit
- Cover Page
- Title Page
- Copyright Page
- Dedication Page
- Preface to 2nd Edition
- Preface to 1st Edition
- Contents
- Notation
- 1. Introduction
- 1.1 Introduction
- 1.2 Synthesis
- 1.3 Simplification
- 1.4 Systems
- 1.5 Jargon and Terminology
- 1.6 Engineering Time
- 1.7 Handy References
- 1.8 Data Requirements
- 1.9 Coastal Design
- 1.10 Concluding Remarks
- 2. Water Waves
- 2.1 Introduction
- 2.1.1 Description of Waves
- 2.1.2 Wind and Waves
- 2.1.3 Sea and Swell
- 2.1.4 Introduction to Small Amplitude Wave Theory
- 2.2 Wave Theories
- 2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory
- 2.3.1 Wave Tables
- 2.3.2 Small Amplitude Expressions
- 2.3.3 Calculation by Computer
- 2.4 Reflected Waves
- 2.5 Wave Measurement
- 2.5.1 Wave Direction
- 2.5.2 Equipment
- 2.5.3 Laboratory Sensors
- 2.6 Summary
- 3. Short-Term Wave Analysis
- 3.1 Introduction
- 3.2. Short-Term Wave Height Distribution
- 3.3 Wave Period Distribution
- 3.4 Time Domain Analysis of a Wave Record
- 3.5 Frequency Domain Analysis of a Wave Record
- 3.6 Parameters Derived from the Wave Spectrum
- 3.7 Uncertainties in Wave Measurements
- 3.8 Common Parametric Expressions for Wave Spectra
- 3.9 Directional Wave Spectra
- 4. Long-Term Wave Analysis
- 4.1. Introduction
- 4.2 Statistical Analysis of Grouped Wave Data
- 4.3 Transformation of Coordinate Axes
- 4.3.1 Normal Probability Distribution
- 4.3.2 Log-Normal Probability Distribution
- 4.3.3 Gumbel Distribution
- 4.3.4 Weibull Distribution
- 4.4 Extrapolation
- 4.5 Sensitivity to Distribution and Threshold Wave Height
- 4.6. Extreme Value Analysis from Ordered Data
- 4.7. Conclusions About Wave Heights
- 4.8. Other Long-Term Wave Distributions
- 5. Wave Generation
- 5.1 Wave Generation
- 5.2 Simple Wave Hindcasting
- 5.2.1 Introduction to Parametric Methods
- 5.2.2 Wind
- 5.2.3 Jonswap Parameters
- 5.2.4 Maximum Wave Conditions
- 5.2.5 Finite Water Depth
- 5.3 Hindcast Models
- 5.3.1 Parametric Models
- 5.3.2 Wave Spectra Models
- 5.3.3 More Complex Hindcasting Models
- 5.4 Uncertainty
- 6. Wave Transformation and Breaking
- 6.1 Wave Transformation Equations
- 6.2 Wave Shoaling
- 6.3 Wave Refraction
- 6.3.1 The Equations
- 6.3.2 Refraction Diagrams
- 6.3.3 Snell’s Law
- 6.3.4 Summary
- 6.4. Wave Breaking
- 6.5. Wave Diffraction
- 6.6. Uncertainty
- 7. Tides and Water Levels
- 7.1 Introduction
- 7.2 Tides
- 7.2.1 Equilibrium Tide (Moon)
- 7.2.2 Equilibrium Tide (Sun and Moon)
- 7.2.3 Daily Inequality
- 7.2.4 Other Effects
- 7.2.5 Tide Analysis and Prediction
- 7.2.6 Tidal Propagation
- 7.2.7 Tidal Currents
- 7.2.8 Stratification and Density Currents
- 7.2.9 Tidal Computation
- 7.3 Storm Surge
- 7.4 Barometric Surge
- 7.5 Seiche
- 7.6 Seasonal Fluctuations
- 7.7 Long-Term Water Level Changes
- 7.7.1 Climatic Fluctuations
- 7.7.2 Eustatic (Sea) Level Change
- 7.7.3 Isostatic (Land) Rebound and Subsidence
- 7.7.4 Global Climate Change
- 8. Rare Extraneous Events
- 8.1 Introduction
- 8.2 Cyclone-Generated Storm Surge
- 8.2.1 Hurricane Katrina at New Orleans
- 8.3 Tsunamis
- 8.3.1 Tsunamis Generated by Earthquakes
- 8.3.2 Tsunamis Generated by Landslides
- 8.4 Transformation and Breaking of Long Waves
- 9. Design of Structures
- 9.1 Introduction
- 9.2 Basics of Probabilistic Design
- 9.2.1 Introduction
- 9.2.2 Probability of Failure
- 9.2.3 Levels of Probabilistic Design
- 9.3 Level II Demonstration
- 9.3.1 Equations
- 9.3.2 Two Probability Distributions
- 9.3.3 One Single Distribution
- 9.3.4 Example Calculations
- 9.4 Extension to More Complex Designs
- 9.5 Encounter Probability
- 9.6 Level I Design
- 9.7 Risk and Damage
- 9.8 The Design Wave
- 9.8.1 Wave Statistics
- 9.8.2 Equivalence of Design Wave Height and Failure Probability
- 9.8.3 Offshore Design Wave Height
- 9.8.4 Design Wave Height for Non-Breaking Waves
- 9.8.5 Design Wave Height for Breaking Waves
- 9.8.6 Model Study
- 9.9 Water Levels
- 10. Breakwaters
- 10.1 Vertical Breakwaters
- 10.1.1 Introduction
- 10.1.2 Forces for Non-Breaking Waves
- 10.1.3 Forces for Breaking Waves
- 10.1.4 Stability Design
- 10.1.5 Geotechnical Stability
- 10.1.6 Other Design Considerations
- 10.2 Design Examples
- 10.2.1 Vertical Breakwater in 12 m of Water With a Short Fetch
- 10.2.2 Vertical Breakwater in 12 m of Water on an Open Coast
- 10.2.3 Vertical Breakwater in 3 m of Water
- 10.2.4 Summary
- 10.3 Rubble Mound Breakwaters
- 10.3.1 Filter Characteristics
- 10.3.2 Rock Armor
- 10.3.3 Concrete Armor
- 10.3.4 Armor Unit Density
- 10.3.5 Primary Armor Layer
- 10.3.6 Breakwater Crest
- 10.4 Design Examples
- 10.4.1 Breakwater in 12 m of Water
- 10.4.2 Breakwater in 3 m of Water
- 10.5 Berm Breakwaters
- 11. Introduction to Coastal Management
- 11.1 Introduction
- 11.2 Decision Making
- 11.3 The Coast under Pressure
- 11.4 Conforming Use
- 11.5 Conflict and Compatibility
- 11.6 Management Strategies
- 11.7 Coastal Management in Spite of the Odds
- 11.8 Management of Coastal Lands
- 11.9 Management of Coastal Waters
- 11.9.1 Groundwater
- 11.9.2 Waste Water
- 11.9.3 Other Forms of Pollution
- 11.10 Example: Management of the Great Lakes—St. Lawrence Shoreline
- 11.11 Example: Management of Coastal Ecosystems
- 11.12 Concluding Remarks
- 12. Coastal Sediment Transport
- 12.1 Introduction
- 12.2 Dynamic Beach Profile
- 12.3 Cross-Shore Transport
- 12.3.1 Dune-Beach Utopia
- 12.3.2 Dune-Beach Disturbance
- 12.3.3 Dune-Beach Encouragement
- 12.3.4 Soft Protection
- 12.4 Alongshore Sediment Transport
- 12.4.1 The Process
- 12.4.2 Measurement of Littoral Transport
- 12.4.3 Computation of Littoral Transport
- 12.5 Complications
- 12.5.1 Limited Amounts of Beach Material
- 12.5.2 Sediment Transport in Two Directions
- 12.5.3 Short Term Littoral Transport
- 12.6 Cohesive Shores
- 13. Basic Shore Processes
- 13.1 Introduction
- 13.2 Nearshore Current Patterns
- 13.3 Littoral Materials
- 13.4 The Beach
- 13.4.1 Beach Slope
- 13.4.2 Beach Profile
- 13.5 Cross Shore Sediment Transport
- 13.6 Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate
- 13.6.1 Alongshore Component of Wave Power
- 13.6.2 CERC Expression
- 13.6.3 Kamphuis (1991) Expression
- 13.7 Actual Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate
- 13.8 The Littoral Cell
- 13.9 Uncertainty
- 14. Coastal Design
- 14.1 Introduction
- 14.2 Model Classification
- 14.2.1 Time-Space Classification
- 14.2.2 Classification by Purpose
- 14.3 Physical Models
- 14.3.1 General
- 14.3.2 Scaling and Scale Effect
- 14.3.3 Laboratory Effect
- 14.3.4 Implications for Physical Modeling
- 14.4 Numerical Modeling
- 14.4.1 General
- 14.4.2 Simplifications of Three-Dimensional Models
- 14.4.3 One-Dimensional Models and their Extensions
- 14.4.4 Performance of Coastal Models
- 14.5 Field Measurement and Data Models
- 14.6 Uncertainty
- 14.7 Reducing Uncertainty
- 14.8 Model Interpretation
- 14.9 The Future
- 14.10 Composite Modeling
- 14.11 Summary
- 15. One-Dimensional Modeling of Coastal Morphology
- 15.1 Introduction
- 15.2 The 1-D Morphology Equation
- 15.3 Sediment Transport Rate
- 15.3.1 Potential Sediment Transport Rate
- 15.3.2 Actual Sediment Transport Rate
- 15.4 Wave Transformation Computation
- 15.4.1 Wave Shoaling, Refraction and Breaking
- 15.4.2 Wave Diffraction
- 15.5 Analytical Computation of Shore Morphology
- 15.5.1 Simplifications and Assumptions
- 15.5.2 Complete Barrier Solution
- 15.5.3 Bypassing Barrier Solution
- 15.6 Numerical Solutions
- 15.6.1 Basics
- 15.6.2 Implicit Finite Difference Scheme
- 15.6.3 Boundary Conditions
- 15.6.4 Beach Slope
- 15.6.5 Large Shoreline Curvatures
- 15.6.6 Summary
- 15.7 Examples of Oneline
- 15.8 Examples of Nline
- 16. Shore Protection
- 16.1 Introduction
- 16.2 Sediment Movement
- 16.3 Groins
- 16.4 Seawalls
- 16.5 Headlands
- 16.6 Offshore Breakwaters
- 16.7 Artificial Nourishment
- 16.8 Concluding Remarks
- 17. Contemporary Concepts
- 17.1 Introduction
- 17.2 Decision Making
- 17.3 Contemporary Coastal System Design
- 17.4 Contemporary Decision Making
- 17.5 Failure, Mitigation and Adaptation
- 17.6 Risk and Minimum Cost
- 17.7 Resilience
- 17.7.1 Introduction of Resilience
- 17.7.2 Level 1 — Design of a Resilient Pes
- 17.8. Uncertainty
- 18. Problems
- 18.1 Introduction
- Problem 1.1: Preparation
- Problem 1.2: Proposal
- 18.2 Water Waves
- Problem 2.1: Basic Wave Calculations
- Problem 2.2: Wave Reflection
- 18.3 Short-Term Wave Analysis
- Problem 3.1: Analysis of Fig. 3.4
- Problem 3.2: Analysis of Collected Wave Data
- Problem 3.3: Rayleigh Distribution
- Problem 3.4: Zero Crossing Analysis
- Problem 3.5: Wave Spectrum
- Problem 3.6: Laboratory Record
- 18.4 Long-Term Wave Analysis
- Problem 4.1: Station 13 Data
- Problem 4.2: North Sea Wave Climate
- Problem 4.3: Gulf of St. Lawrence Climate
- Problem 4.4: 50-Year Storm
- 18.5 Wave Hindcasting
- Problem 5.1: Very Simple Wave Hindcast
- Problem 5.2: Simple Wave Hindcast
- Problem 5.3: WAVGEN and Shallow Water
- 18.6 Wave Transformation
- Problem 6.1: Wave Refraction and Breaking
- Problem 6.2: Wave Transformation
- Problem 6.3: Wave Diffraction
- 18.7 Storm Surge and Extraneous Events
- Problem 7.1: Storm Surge at Reeds Bay
- Problem 7.2: Storm Surge and Waves
- Problem 7.3: Storm Surge and Waves at Site S
- Problem 7.4: Tsunami Damage on the Maldives
- Problem 7.5: Sea Level Rise and the Maldives
- 18.8 Design
- Problem 8.1: Probability of Failure
- Problem 8.2: Vertical Breakwater
- Problem 8.3: Vertical Breakwater at Site M
- Problem 8.4: Vertical Loading Dock on Gulf of St. Lawrence
- Problem 8.5: Rubble Mound Breakwater
- Problem 8.6: Rubble Mound Breakwater at Site M
- 18.9 Coastal Management
- Problem 9.1: Expansion at Site M
- Problem 9.2: Facilities at Site B
- Problem 9.3: Development of Property
- 18.10 Sediment Transport and Morphology
- Problem 10.1: Potential Sediment Transport Rate
- Problem 10.2: Potential Sediment Transport Rate
- Problem 10.3: Accretion
- Problem 10.4: Sediment Transport in Two Directions
- Problem 10.5: Sea Level Rise
- Problem 10.6: Northeaster Storm
- 18.11 Modeling
- Problem 11.1: Physical Models
- Problem 11.2: Numerical Models
- 18.12 Shore Protection
- Problem 12.1: Recommendations About Shore Protection
- 18.13 Contemporary Decision Making
- Problem 13.1: Pre-Design Analysis
- Problem 13.2: Recommend Improvements to Flood Protection
- 18.14 Comprehensive Problems
- Problem 14.1: Design Analysis
- Problem 14.2: Design of Breakwater with Parapet Wall
- Problem 14.3: Vertical Breakwater Design
- References
- Author Index
- Subject Index